Brugmansia sanguinea

Source: James Emery

Brugmansia sanguinea

Brugmansia sanguinea or Scarlet Angel’s Trumpet bears striking but not scented flowers.

It’s a fast grower that can grow in the garden in tropical and subtropical regions.

Elsewhere it has to be treated as on orangery plant.


Brugmansia sanguinea is a shrub or small tree that grows up to 10 m in habitat 2-4 m in culture.

The young stems, leaves and calyx are covered with sparse or dense, soft, white hairs.

The lower leaves are oval with wavy or angular toothed margins. The upper leaves are ovate to lance-shaped, with wavy or entire margins.

The flowers are pendulous and not scented. The calyx is tubular, ribbed, 6-9 cm long with 2-5 blunt to acuminate teeth and partly covers the fruit. The corolla is yellow, red, orange-red or green, often in combination, tubular to funnel-shaped, gradually tapering towards the mouth and recurved, 15-23 cm long, with narrow basal portion longer than the calyx, merged on virtually the entire length. The teeth are 1-2 cm long, recurved. The stamens are free standing, the pistil is club-shaped.

The fruit is covered with fine hairs, ovate, 7-9 cm long and 4-6 cm wide.

The seed is 4×7 mm and wrinkled.

All parts of the plant are poisonous.


Common names:

Red Angel’s Trumpet, Scarlet Angel’s Trumpet


Brugmansia aurea, Brugmansia bicolor, Brugmansia chlorantha, Brugmansia lutea, Datura rosei, Datura sanguinea, Datura sanguinea var. flava, Elisia mutabilis Milano


Brugmansia: after Sebald Justinus Brugmans (1763-1819), an 18th century naturalist and physician
Sanguinea: from the Latin sangineus (bloody, blood colored)


Tropical South America


Andes, 2,000-3,000 m high


USDA zone 10-11



Rich and well drained


Full sun preferred, partial shade


They require extensive watering during the growing season: at least once a day or 2 times per day in case of heat wave.

Be careful though not to have the substrate very wet all the time: plan a gravel layer at the bottom for good drainage and avoid saucers under the pots so as not to have the pot in standing water.

In winter, watering can be spaced, let the soil dry between watering but not to much otherwise your plant will die.
You will see the leaves become more flaccid when they need water.


Brugmansia is a plant with extremely fast growth. It therefore needs a lot of fertilizer in order to obtain this development in your garden or on your terrace or patio.

A fertilizer for roses or geraniums is the ideal fertilizer but any other fertilizer (universal, agricultural …) will do.

Choose a liquid fertilizer to be diluted in water because solid fertilizers release nutrients too slowly for Brugmansia’s rapid development.

Never provide fertilizer if the substrate is dry, the roots might be burned.

During growing season, give fertilizer weekly.


Brugmansia loves the summer heat. Bring them outside around March-April but only during the day to harden them. As soon as the danger of frost is over, around May-June, you can leave them outside.

In winter, put them in a room where the temperature is ideally around 13 °C and does not fall below 5 °C.

Limit watering without letting the root ball dry out completely, the plant would die.


You can prune the plant but the pruning will limit the next bloom.


Seed, cutting or layering.


  • soak seeds 1-2 days in warm water: in a Thermos flask, in a pot over a heater or other quite hot place quite, in a mini-heated greenhouse or heated aquarium type case
  • sow seed in a very light soil
  • the general rule is to cover the seed with a layer of soil about the thickness of the seed
  • sow seeds in a single pot that you put in an aquarium, mini-greenhouse or enclose the pot in a zip-lock plastic bag or cover type of plastic wrap that you hold with a rubber band, which keeps a good moisture without need to water regularly
  • maintain a temperature of 20-36 °C
  • germination: 2-3 weeks to several months
  • seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2-3 leaves in a humus rich soil.


  • cut off a piece of stem (10-15 cm) by cutting above the first point of fork of a branch: these cuttings will flower more quickly than those taken below the first point of the fork.
  • get rid of lower leaves
  • soak the cut end in rooting hormone (optional)
  • plant in light soil
  • moisten
  • cover with a plastic bag
  • another method is to cut a plastic soda bottle to one third of the height. After having planted the cuttings, put the top part over the lower part, it will make you a very cheap mini-greenhouse
  • keep out of the sun
  • if the cuttings are kept warm, rooting takes place in two weeks. Otherwise it may take up to six weeks.


  • cut a branch at 2/3
  • dip in rooting hormone (optional)
  • surround the nick with compost or peat
  • surround with cloth
  • moisten the whole thing
  • pack in a plastic bag
  • roots will appear in 2 to 6 weeks
  • when the rooting is done, cut the stem to separate the new plant from the parent plant